Floyd Cardoz of Tabla

Back in late July, I was fortunate enough to see one of my favorite New York chefs demonstrate his lamb roasting skills live at Google's New York offices. It was only over the weekend that I found this clip of the event, and (even though it already appeared on Grub Street), I too wanted to share it with my readers. Because I was there. And they weren't!



Tabla
11 Madison Avenue
(at 25th Street)
(212) 889-0667 Read More!

Top 10 Cheeseburgers (... Okay, Top 11)

Balthazar
Meat Source: Piccinini Brothers blend
Patty Weight: 8.5 ounces
Cooking Method: Grilled
Roll: Balthazar Bakery pain de mie
Toppings: Cheddar cheese, lettuce, tomato, onions, and served with pommes frites
Price: $16

Blue 9 Burger
Patty Weight: 3 ounces
Cooking Method: grill
Roll: "p/fglain bread."
Toppings: Lettuce, tomatoes, double cheese
Price: $4.75



Burger Joint
Patty Weight: 6 ounces
Cooking Method: grill
Roll: Arnold bun
Toppings: lettuce, tomato, onion, sliced pickles, mustard, ketchup, mayo. Cheese: Colby and Cheddar
Price: $7.50


Cookshop
Meat Blend: short rib, brisket, and chuck combo
Meat Source: Eco Friendly Foods
Patty Weight: 8 ounces
Cooking Method: grill
Roll: homemade potato roll
Toppings: Applewood bacon, Vermont Cheddar, chipotle ketchup
Price: $17

Corner Bistro
Meat Blend: chuck and ground sirloin
Patty Weight: 9 ounces
Cooking Method: broil
Roll: sesame-seed bun
Toppings: bacon, lettuce, tomato, onion, American cheese
Price: $6.75


Fanelli's
Patty Weight: half pound
Cooking Method: grill
Roll: onion roll
Toppings: lettuce, tomato, grilled onions, mushrooms, bacon, chili, choice of cheeses
Price: $8.75 plus toppings


Minetta Tavern
Meat Blend: short-rib blend
Meat Source: Pat LaFrieda
Patty Weight:: 8.5 ounces
Cooking Method: griddle
Roll: Balthazar Bakery brioche bun
Toppings: caramelized onions and cheddar cheese
Price: $16

Shake Shack
Meat Blend: mostly brisket with chuck and short rib mixed in
Meat Source: Pat LaFrieda
Patty Weight: 4 ounces
Cooking Method: griddle
Roll: griddled potato bun
Toppings: American cheese, lettuce, tomato, pickle, onion
Price: $4.75

Spotted Pig
Meat Blend: secret beef blend
Meat Source: Pat LaFrieda
Patty Weight: 8 ounces
Cooking Method: grill
Roll: brioche bun
Toppings: Roquefort
Price: $17

Stand
Meat Blend: ground chuck 70-30 ratio
Meat Source: Pat LaFrieda
Patty Weight: 7 ounces
Cooking Method: grill
Roll: bun from Long Island City bakery Pain d’Avignon
Toppings: red onion, lettuce, tomato, sliced pickle, homemade ketchup, Dijon mustard
Price: $9

Stoned Crow
Meat Blend: freshly ground chuck
Meat Source: proprietary
Patty Weight:: 2 three-ounce patties
Cooking Method: griddle
Roll: Tom Cat Bakery bun with a semolina crisp
Toppings: sheep’s-milk cheese, pickled onions, sliced cornichon, and special sauce with Indian-pepper-pickled basque pepper
Price: $11 Read More!

Minetta Tavern

I have found a new favorite burger joint in New York City: the Minetta Tavern.

The Tavern first opened in Greenwich Village in 1937 (and it was named after the Minetta Brook, which ran southwest from 23rd Street to the Hudson River – who knew?). For the last 72 years, it has been a notorious hangout for some of America's great writers and poets, including Ernest Hemingway, Ezra Pound, Eugene O'Neill, E. E. Cummings, Dylan Thomas, and Joe Gould.

After decades of serving Italian cuisine, the Tavern was purchased by Keith McNally and his chef-partners Lee Hanson and Riad Nasr (Balthazar, Pastis, Schiller's, Morandi, etc.). Their goal: to turn the Minetta into a "Parisian steakhouse meets classic New York City tavern." After it finally reopened, it had been transformed into an 85-seat bistro, with the vintage murals and photo intact.

The French framework of the menu fits in perfectly with McNally's other eateries, and so does the cuisine. On one end, you have the classics, such as oxtail and foie gras terrine, stuffed squid, or filet of trout meunière. But there is also a section of the menu devoted solely to the tavern-esque fare that you'd expect.

Despite having an appetizing menu, I limited myself to only have one thing: one of the Tavern's infamous cheeseburgers. I was advised by a friend that the Pat La Frieda “Black Label” burger (for $26) had not lived up to his expectations, mainly because it lacked cheese. So instead, I chose the Minetta Burger. It's a hearty short-rib blend from the legendary West Village meat purveyors Pat LaFrieda, which is topped with caramelized onions and cheddar cheese and served on a Balthazar Bakery brioche bun (naturally). Eight and a half ounces for only $16. And it comes with a plate of amazing frites. I ordered it medium, and ate it right at the bar with a Gin Blossom (Plymouth Gin, St. Germain elderflower liqueur, Aperol and fresh grapefruit juice – $14). As soon as I tried the burger, I was in heaven. It was cooked perfectly, so juicy and tender.

HEAVEN.

I also ordered a plate of delicious wild mushrooms, that had been heavily cooked in butter and a variety of herbs. Plain and simple. But they were an absolutely perfect side for my cheeseburger.

All that I have to say is GO! The Minetta Tavern has a fantastic environment; it was crowded when I went over the weekend, but like McNally's other restaurants, it was a crowd of beautiful people. Give it a try, you'll love it. Next on my list was the bartender's recommendation: the Tavern Steak with pommes frites ($21).


MINETTA TAVERN
113 MacDougal Street
(at Minetta Lane)
(212) 475-3850 Read More!

L'Artusi

Located just off of Bleecker Street in the heart of the West Village is L'Artusi, the younger sister of one of my favorite restaurants Dell'anima.

Also run by Gabe Thompson and Joe Campanele, graduates of the Batali empire, L'Artusi has both an excellent menu as well as clean and comfortable decor. The small Italian plates are inviting, and the neo-Regency décor of Dell'anima has been splendidly recreated. While there are plenty of tables downstairs (in addition to seating upstairs), an extensive bar with 30 seats dominates the first floor of L'Artusi, as well as an excellent raw bar and cheese bar.

Before coming to L'Artusi, I naturally did my research and checked it out online, where I learned that cheese snobs speak highly of the restaurant's selection. Naturally we decided that our meal must then start with cheese. After speaking with the waitress, she recommended two: tomme du berge ($6) and ossau iraty vielle ($6), both of which came from Murray's. The tomme had a buttery richness and was remarkably fruity, with ripe pear flavors, which went nicely with my glass of Syrah (by the way, there are quite a few reasonably priced bottles). On the other hand, the ossau had an excellent smoked flavor, which gave us a nice balance with the tomme.

For our meal, we ordered both a pasta and a carne. For our pasta, we chose the tagliatelle ($18) which was topped in a lovely bolognese bianco. The pasta itself was a dual sided tagiatelle – one spinach, one egg. And even though it was not a cream sauce, there was enough pecorino that when it blended with the sauce, it became decadent and creamy.

Our carne was the hanger steak ($20) which was simple but quite good in my opinion. On the inside, the steak was still tender and juicy, but on the outside it was charred to perfection. It was served with a delicious salsa bianco as well as crispy roasted potatoes.

L'Artusi in my opinion was an excellent restaurant. The cheeses were excellent, and both plates were delicious. And I appreciated the fact that I left feeling full, but not obese. I would definitely recommend going, especially if you enjoy the atmosphere of a good wine bar. Great date spot as well.


L'ARTUSI
228 W. 10th Street
(near Bleecker Street)
(212) 255-5757 Read More!

Fancy Fast Food

... for garnish and a touch of irony!

I first heard about this web site over the summer, but after it appeared on The Huffington Post as one of the best web sites that "You Should Be Wasting Time On Right Now," I decided that I too should post about the excellence of Fancy Fast Food!

My personal favorite? Tapas de Castillo Blanco.

It begins as one White Castle Sack Meal #1, with cheese and bacon (four bacon cheeseburger Slyders, a box of french fries, and a medium Coca-Cola), one White Castle Sack Meal #8 (two chicken sandwiches, a box of onion rings, and a medium Hi-C Poppin’ Pink Lemonade), one order of fried clams, as well as a few packets of tartar sauce and ketchup.

In the end however, it has been transformed into a delicious tapas cuisine: onion rings draped with a dollop of dressing, cheese croquetas, clams wrapped in bacon, chicken papas rellenas, meatballs served on a drizzle of Coke syrup, the remaining bacon (a.k.a. jamón) garnished with parsley, and chicken breast garnished with parsley after being brushed lightly with sweet Coke syrup.

It's really an amazing web page, with excellent recipes from McDonald's, Burger King, Dunkin' Donuts, Subway, and even 7-Eleven! Read More!

Co.

When I first moved to New York in August 2006, I remember hearing about the Roman-inspired pizza slices available in Hell's Kitchen, at the Sullivan Street Bakery. I was told by a co-worker that they had some of the best pizza in the city, but it tended to always fly under the radar.

Little did I know that Jim Lahey of Sullivan Street also owns a local Chelsea eatery: Co., an intimate pizzeria, serving Lahey's newest creation: round, thin-crusted, Nepolitanesque pies with standard, yet delicious toppings.

One key difference between the pies at Sullivan Street and Co. would be the temperature. At Sullivan they're served at room temperature, while at Co., they are baked in at around 700 degrees in a wood-burning oven imported from Modena. And the result is quite appetizing, providing a light, fluffy crust with a slightly charred flavor.

Since the pies are relatively small (4 slices per pie), we decided to order two. First was the Ham and Cheese ($14) which was topped with prosciutto and caraway, and then covered with a 3-cheese mixture of pecorino, gruyère, and buffalo mozzarella. I must say, the prosciutto was outstanding; I would have willingly ordered a second pie simply to devour the ham on top! Our second pizza was the Flambé ($16) which a mixture of parmesan and buffalo mozzarella, with caramelized onions and lardons, covered in a béchamel sauce. At first I was concerned the the sauce was too heavy for the pizza, but I was certainly wrong once I bit into the pizza; the flavors blended together perfectly, creating a truly delicious piece of pizza. I was recommend cutting back on the lardons though, I thought it made the pizza a little too salty at times.

We also ordered an Escarole Salad ($7 – topped with bread crumbs, capers, and anchovies in a lemon and olive oil dressing) which was, well, fine. If I could go back in time and do it all over again, I would have picked something else.

Overall? Co. was a really enjoyable experience, with a friendly staff and excellent food. I would highly recommend giving it a try, but I must say that it was definitely overpriced for pizza. Between the two pies, one salad, and a bottle of wine (with tax and tip), the bill was almost $100!



CO.
230 Ninth Avenue
(at 24th Street)
(212) 243-1105 Read More!

The Park

Last weekend, I took my mom to The Park for brunch...

While the food was fairly standard, I must say that the space is phenomenal. At a time when so many restaurants are opting for minimal and modern, The Park is wild and exciting. The main dining room is spacious and organic, filled with a National Geographic decor and a vibrant bar. And then of course there is the Garden, which is more than just your average garden. It is an enclosed jungle, covered in twinkle lights. It's obvious that The Park is a late night hot spot.

That being said: the food. I had a bowl of Gazpacho ($6) and a Caesar Salad with Grilled Chicken ($10). I know, boring choices. My apologies. The Gazpacho was quite good, although it was quite wet and lacked enough raw vegetables to make it exciting. And the salad was your standard run of the mill Caesar. My mom on the other hand had the Crab Cake Benedict ($14) which looked quite good.

While I will not be going back to The Park anytime soon for food, I will certainly make a point to return in the near future for a fun night of debauchery.


THE PARK
118 Tenth Avenue
(near 17th Street)
(212) 352-3313 Read More!

Mercat

Despite all that transpired after my recent meal at Mercat in NoHo, I must say that the restaurant's Catalan cuisine was some of the best that I've had, maybe even comparable to some of Barcelona's notable hot spots.

We started off with the cheese platter (3 for $14, 5 for $20) which came with an assortment Catalan cheeses. We chose to go for the larger platter, which paired together two goat cheeses, two sheep cheeses as well as a mixed cheese: Garrotxa (a semi-firm goat cheese with a milky flavor and a delicate hint of nuttiness), Caña de Cabra (a creamy and mild goat cheese), Manchego (a nutty, sweet, and tangy semi-firm sheep's milk cheese), Idiazabal (a smokey yet nutty firm sheep's milk cheese), and La Peral (a blue cheese that resembles an Italian Gorgonzola, with a nice olive flavor).

That plate was accompanied by an assortment of meats (Assortiment d’Embotits for $24). In my opinion it was an excellent pairing of four different Spanish meats: Pernil Serrano, Morcilla (a Spanish blood sausage, probably my least favorite), Llonganissa (a thin dry-cured Spanish sausage), Sobrassada (a raw cured sausage), and Xoriç.

We then transformed the remainder of our meal into a tapas-style feast...

First we ordered Croquetes de Gamba ($7), which were croquettes with shrimp and spinach. Despite their small size, these really packed a punch. They were fried to perfection and tasted absolutely amazing – the spinach to cheese ratio was absolutely flawless.

That was followed by another enjoyable appetizer: Bombas ($9), which were chicken, pork and beef meatballs in an aioli sauce. Initially I was concerned about the mixture. My untrained palate had no idea that the combination would be so good.

Finally, we ordered Trencat d'Ous ($13), which was a mixture of sliced onions, fried eggs and salsa verde. It was very good, but I found it to be the least enjoyable of the last three plates.

In terms of wine and liquor at Mercat, it was all quite good. The wine list was impressive, the cocktails were mixed to perfection. Although we were quite shocked to find that they were unable to provide us with a single bottle of port. Still, everything was quite satisfying. Too satisfying. I learned my lesson though.













MERCAT
45 Bond Street
(between Bowery and Lafayette)
(212) 529-8600 Read More!

Julie & Julia

I finally saw "Julie & Julia," the story of chef Julia Child, and how her life contrasts with Julie Powell, an ordinary woman who aspires to cook all 524 recipes from Child's legendary cookbook, "Mastering the Art of French Cooking."

Yes, the rumors are absolutely true: the film is absolutely superb. It's a really terrific story about two women from completely different generations, and how they establish their identities through food.

Meryl Streep is brilliant, even Oscar worthy. Every single word and every movement is eerily similar to the great Julia Child. In fact, after I left the theater, I looked at the poster and had to remind myself that the woman in front of me was Meryl Streep and not Child.

Amy Adams isn't bad either. She plays Julie Powell, the down-and-out blogger who was determined to cook her way through Julia Child's masterpiece in a single year. After reading the book "Julie & Julia" about one year ago, I knew that Adams was dead-on with her portrayal of Powell. That being said, Powell is an overbearing character who was complained far too much in the book, and just as much in the movie. I almost feel bad saying this, but it needs to be said: this should have been a movie based solely upon Julia Child's "My Life in France."

Either way, go and see "Julia & Julia." It's a charming story that will leave you longing for some of Child's classic dishes. Especially her legendary Boeuf Bourguignon, which I have conveniently posted below...


Boeuf Bourguignon à la Julia Child

Ingredients –

For the Stew:
6 ounces bacon, solid chunk
1 tablespoon olive oil
3 lbs lean stewing beef, cut into 2-inch cubes
1 carrot, peeled and sliced
1 onion, peeled and sliced
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper, freshly ground
2 tablespoons flour
3 cups red wine (a full bodied wine like Bordeaux or Burgundy or Chianti)
2-3 cups beef stock
1 tablespoon tomato paste
2 garlic cloves, mashed (you may choose to add more)
1 sprig thyme (or 1/2 teaspoon dred thyme)
1 bay leaf, preferably fresh

For the Braised Onions:
18-24 white pearl onions, peeled
1 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 1/2 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 cup beef stock
salt & fresh ground pepper
1 bay leaf
1 sprig thyme
2 sprigs parsley

For the Sauteed Mushrooms:
1 lb mushroom, quartered
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 tablespoon olive oil


Directions –

1. First prepare the bacon: cut off the rind and reserve.
2. Cut the bacon into lardons about 1/4" think and 1 1/2" long.
3. Simmer the rind and the lardons for ten minutes in 1 1/2 quarts of water.
4. Drain and dry the lardons and rind and reserve.
5. Pre-heat the oven to 450°F.
6. Put the tablespoon of olive oil in a large (9" - 10" wide, 3" deep) fireproof casserole and warm over moderate heat.
7. Saute the lardons for 2 to 3 minutes to brown lightly.
8. Remove to a side dish with a slotted spoon.
9. Dry off the pieces of beef and saute them, a few at a time in the hot oil/bacon fat until nicely browned on all sides.
10. Once browned, remove to the side plate with the bacon.
11. In the same oil/fat, saute the onion and the carrot until softened.
12. Pour off the fat and return the lardons and the beef to the casserole with the carrots and onion.
13. Toss the contents of the casserole with the salt and pepper and sprinkle with the flour.
14. Set the uncovered casserole in the oven for four minutes.
15. Toss the contents of the casserole again and return to the hot oven for 4 more minutes.
16. Now, lower the heat to 325°F and remove the casserole from the oven.
17. Add the wine and enough stock so that the meat is barely covered.
18. Add the tomato paste, garlic and herbs and the bacon rind.
19. Bring to a simmer on the top of the stove.
20. Cover and place in the oven, adjusting the heat so that the liquid simmers very slowly for three to four hours.
21. The meat is done when a fork pierces it easily.
22. While the meat is cooking, prepare the onions and mushrooms and set them aside till needed.
23. For the onion, if using frozen, make sure they are defrosted and drained.
24. Heat the butter and oil in a large skillet and add the onions to the skillet.
25. Saute over medium heat for about ten minutes, rolling the onions about so they brown as evenly as possible, without breaking apart.
26. Pour in the stock, season to taste, add the herbs, and cover.
27. Simmer over low heat for about 40 to 50 minutes until the onions are perfectly tender but retain their shape and the liquid has mostly evaporated.
28. Remove the herbs and set the onions aside.
29. For the mushrooms, heat the butter and oil over high heat in a large skillet.
30. As soon as the foam begins to subside add the mushrooms and toss and shake the pan for about five minutes.
31. As soon as they have browned lightly, remove from heat.
32. To Finish the Stew:.
33. When the meat is tender, remover the casserole from the oven and empty its contents into a sieve set over a saucepan.
34. Wash out the casserole and return the beef and bacon to it (discarding the bits of carrot and onion and herbs which remain in the sieve).
35. Distribute the mushrooms and onions over the meat.
36. Skim the fat off the sauce and simmer it for a minute or two, skimming off any additional fat which rises to the surface.
37. You should be left with about 2 1/2 cups of sauce thick enough to coat a spoon lightly.
38. If the sauce is too thick, add a few tablespoons of stock.
39. If the sauce is too thin, boil it down to reduce to the right consistency.
40. Taste for seasoning.
41. Pour the sauce over the meat and vegetables.
42. If you are serving immediately, place the covered casserole over medium low heat and simmer 2 to 3 minutes.
43. Serve in the casserole or on a warm platter surrounded by noodles, potatoes or rice and garnished with fresh parsley.
44. If serving later or the next day, allow the casserole to cool and place cold, covered casserole in the refrigerator.
45. 20 minutes prior to serving, place over medium low heat and simmer very slowly for ten minutes, occasionally basting the meat and vegetables with the sauce.


As Julia Child would say, Bon Appétit!
Read More!

Restaurant Aquavit

I finally made it to Marcus Samuelsson's Restaurant Aquavit!

Since Aquavit first opened in 1987 under the leadership of Håkan Swahn, it has been firmly established as one of the best dining destinations in Midtown Manhattan. What I appreciate about Aquavit, it the fact that it has always striven to be an international restaurant with Scandinavian flair and not simply an ethnic restaurant.

Before I get to the cuisine, I want to address my one complaint: the restaurant's interior. The modernist IKEA-esque decor creates a harsh and even claustrophobic atmosphere, especially inside the restaurant's tiny but upscale dining room. That being said, as soon as the flawless meal begins, you'll immediately forget about the decor as you find yourself entranced with the cuisine.

Three different plates made up our first course: first, we had tuna tartar which was topped with toasted pine nuts, and served on top of avocado slices and mixed greens. With tuna as fresh as Aquavit's, there was no possible way that this dish could go wrong. Our second dish was an heirloom tomato salad, which was served with sliced red onions and blue cheese, and topped with a onion-tarragon dressing. Simple, but delicious. I think I enjoyed it so much, because it reminded me of the salads that my mom used to make when I was growing up.

Our final plate for the first course was my favorite by far: a herring plate, which came with four slices of herring, and each was paired with a piece of cheese, a potato or a homemade jam. Before arriving at Aquavit, I jokingly said that the menu would be filled with herring made by the Swedish Chef from The Muppet Show, so when I finally saw that herring was on the menu, I chuckled, but at the same time was a little nauseated by the idea that I would eat raw chunks of herring. I was certainly wrong however! Each piece of fish was perfectly paired, and I must say, all of the combination's were quite delicious.

On to the second course. Two dishes this time. The first was a smoked venison loin paired with huckleberry, dumplings and morels. Enjoyable, but in general, it was your typical venison: quite tough, and gamey in flavor. The second dish was delicious, despite sounding quite generic: Swedish Meatballs, which were served on top of mashed potatoes, and topped with a cream sauce and lingonberries. What I really appreciated about this meal was the fact that Marcus Samuelsson clearly took a typical Swedish meal, but used spices from his native Ethiopia in order to bring a new and exciting flavor to both the meatballs and the cream sauce.

We ended up splitting two desserts. The first was called the Arctic Circle, which paired a goat cheese parfait with blueberry sorbet and passion fruit curd. Between the sweetness of the sorbet, and the tangy flavor of both the parfait and the curd, the Arctic Circle created a lovely balance of flavors. The second dessert was somewhat average, but quite delicious nonetheless: a chocolate mousse coated with a peanut powder and topped with a grape sorbet. (By the way, the grape sorbet was phenomenal.)

And don't forget to try some of the restaurant's signature aquavit -- a flavored Scandinavian spirit that typically contains 40% alcohol by volume. I would personally recommend the cucumber, but would certainly not recommend the lingonberry.


RESTAURANT AQUAVIT
65 E. 55th Street
(between Madison and Park)
(212) 307-7311 Read More!

Restaurant Week -- Summer 2009

For Restaurant Week this summer, I decided to join two friends from home for dinner at Zoë, the contemporary American eatery in SoHo.

Yes, I was certainly looking forward to my meal, but my initial impression of the restaurant made me question our restaurant week selection. I have always heard good things about Zoë, but as soon as I entered the restaurant, I felt like I was in an upscale California Pizza Kitchen. There was a type of faux-elegance about the whole space. At the same time, as soon as I sat down, the wait staff was overly friendly in an obnoxious and uncomfortable way. For example, after I finished my first glass of wine, the waiter asked if I wanted another every 2 or 3 minutes.

But I didn't want to judge the restaurant too quickly, so I waited for our $35.00 three-course meal...

I was quite pleased with the first course: a watermelon gazpacho, with jicama and crab meat. It was incredibly refreshing, as any gazpacho is, but at the same time it had a very interesting flavor. On one end it tasted like your average spicy gazpacho filled with crab meat, but on the other end, the taste of watermelon was clearly present, adding a truly summery feel. We all gave the gazpacho two enthusiastic thumbs up!

Next, for my entree, I ordered the marinated grilled hanger steak, which was placed on top of a warm salad of string beans, roasted new potatoes, which was then topped with a blue cheese and balsamic reduction sauce. While the steak was a little tough, it was in general, quite good, and with the blue cheese and balsamic, it was even better.

I was quite jealous of my one dining companion, who ordered the grilled mahi mahi, which was served with a coconut-saffron risotto and pineapple mango salsa: excellent and refreshing.

Now on to dessert: we decided to share two desserts. First was a white chocolate pudding, served with bing cherries and caramelized pistachios. I was a little concerned that the bing cherries would overpower the remaining flavors; however, they were cut in such tiny pieces that they added to the flavor without destroying the creaminess of the pudding and the saltiness of the pistachios. Our second dessert was very good but too generic in my opinion: an Illy espresso layer cake served with a heavy dark chocolate sorbet.

Overall, it was a very nice experience. The food was good, but not exceptional. And the service was okay. Everyone was kind, but they certainly enjoyed taking their time. Between our appetizer and our entree, we waited for more than half an hour. If it hadn't have been for the company, I think that my time at Zoë would have not been nearly as enjoyable.


ZOË
90 Prince Street
(between Broadway and Mercer)
(212) 966-0644 Read More!

The Perfect Brunch

Eric Kuhn, a new media consultant and a good friend of mine recently published "45 Minutes (and 400 Miles) Till French Toast," an article discussing the importance of brunching in New York City. Since my last two posts were about brunch, I felt the need to publish a link to his article on my blog. Read More!

Almond

Located in the famed home of Rocco DiSpirito's failed reality show restaurant, the traditional French-American "Almond" offers a high class menu at a reasonable price, which may be exactly what the doctor ordered during these rough economic times.

While dining at "Almond" the other night, we transformed their typical menu in an enjoyable tapas-style meal. We started off with the Select Cheeses ($14.75), which included four different pieces: a buttery Gorgonzola, a Parmigiano-Reggiano with balsamic vinegar, a particularly creamy Mozzarella, and a light Camembert. In addition to the slices of cheese, the plate came equipped with both dried cranberries and dried apricots, as well as walnuts and slices of toasted bread. The platter was very nice, but somewhat generic.

Next, we had the Escargot ($11.50), which was cooked in a butter-based garlic and Pernod sauce, and topped with small cubes of toasted bread. I found the snails at "Almond" to be particularly enjoyable, since they were not particularly tough, and the garlic-Pernod sauce created a delicious flavor.

We followed with another mollusk: Steamed Black Mussels ($9 for small, $15 for large). The mussels were served in a white wine sauce with shallots, and topped with parsley. The mussels themselves were standard, nothing to write home about. The sauce however was quite enjoyable. Light but extremely flavorful.

We finished with "Le Grand Macaroni & Cheese," which included penne served with prosciutto and chopped truffles ($18.25). In my opinion, it was a little overpriced for macaroni and cheese, but it was worth every penny. The cheese was still warm and filled with distinct flavors, and when mixed with the ham and truffles, the dish was absolutely delicious.

"Almond" was an enjoyable and I'd highly recommend it to any diner. And after the failure of both "Rocco's on 22nd" and "Brasserio Caviar and Banana," it's nice to see a success.

P.S. While I really enjoyed my cocktail, I was advised by a fellow diner that it was too limey. I had the St. Germain cocktail, which included gin, St. Germain elderflower liquer, and fresh lime.


Almond
12 East 22nd Street
(at Broadway)
(212) 228-7557 Read More!

Brunch B: Blue Water Grill

Yes, I know that it has been almost a week since I last posted on my blog. These past few days have been quite hectic, and well, I had absolutely no motivation to sit down and write this post. But here it is...

Last weekend, I finally went to Blue Water Grill for brunch, and had a very enjoyable experience.

With the brunch menu at Blue Water, you receive a complimentary beverage. My selection: the SKYY Bloody Mary. For some reason, I was craving tomato juice with a splash of Vodka and a touch of cracked pepper. Ah, perfection.

My meal selection was boring: Eggs Benedict. Standard, I know. But it is after all my favorite. And since hundreds of men and women have used Eggs Benedict as a cure for a hangover since it first appeared at New York's Waldorf Hotel in 1894, I decided that I too would use it for my hangover.

Like any other Eggs Benedict, it consisted of a half of an English muffin, topped with Canadian bacon, a poached egg, and then covered in a rich Hollandaise sauce. At Blue Water, it was served with a generous portion of home fries, which in my opinion were quite good. Just the right amount of peppers and onions so that they spiced the dish up but didn't take anything away from the potatoes.

Overall, a very nice experience and I would certainly return to the Blue Water Grill again for brunch. Recommendation: sit on the first floor. I felt that the upstairs was a little claustrophobic and removed from the excitement of the restaurant.


Blue Water Grill
31 Union Square West
(at 16th Street)
(212) 675-9500 Read More!

Brunch A: Vento

Enjoyable, but satisfactory. Those two words describe my recent experience at Vento Trattoria in New York's Meatpacking District.

On one end, the atmosphere at Vento was excellent. Its prime location in the Meatpacking District offers fantastic people-watching along the street, especially during warm weather. Last Saturday when I was there, the weather was perfect. Sunny, but a few clouds overhead kept the temperature from reaching uncomfortable levels.

Now onto the cuisine. Vento is actually one of the few Italian words that I am familiar with. It means wind. And let's just say that the food at Vento Trattoria did not blow me away.

Between the two of us, we ordered two dishes. For some reason, I've always had a sensitive stomach in the morning, so I went with my stereotypical brunch selection: the Classic Benedict ($12). Just your average Eggs Benedict: an English muffin, topped with Canadian bacon, poached eggs, and Hollandaise sauce. Don't get me wrong, it was tasty, and it did its intended trick -- to soothe the effects of a night's carousing -- but it did not sweep me off my feet.

Also on the table was the Parma Pizza, which was a regular pizza pie with tomato sauce and mozzarella, topped with prosciutto and arugula. Again, the pizza was very good. The crust was thin and there was a perfect amount of sauce with an adequate amount of prosciutto. They went wild with arugula though. Too much in my opinion. But overall, the pizza did not blow me away.

I did enjoy my meal, and would certainly go back. But if I was looking for a restaurant with an innovative and exciting menu, Vento would not be on the top of my list.


Vento Trattoria
675 Hudson Street
(at 14th Street)
(212) 699-2400 Read More!

Bar Stuzzichini

Bar Stuzzichini was my most recent dining experience in New York's Flatiron District, and despite being concerned about the restaurant because of its fairly empty dining room (during the Sunday lunch hour), I found everything that I ordered to be, well, delicious.

We started the afternoon off with the large Stuzzichini Misti, which was essentially Italian tapas. Five plates for $25. I decided to be adventurous and let a Stuzzichini-regular order since I had never been there before.

We started off with Scamorza alla Brace (normally $8) which is a Scamorza cheese (similar in taste to a mozzarella, but notorious for melting better in baking) that is then topped with with a spicy, grilled meat. Nice flavor, but I felt that the meat was much too powerful for the cheese.

Next, a simple, but classic Italian specialty: meatballs in tomato sauce (normally $7). The sauce was not too heavy which was nice. Light, but not watery. And the meatballs were very good: adequately seasoned, and they appeared to have been cooked in the sauce instead of in the oven, which I prefer.

Prosciutto di Parma (normally $10) came next. What can I say? It's prosciutto. You either like it or you don't.

Probably my favorable part of the meal was the Ricotta e Miele Crostini (normally $4), which was a light, whipped ricotta cheese, placed on top of a small crostini, which was then drizzled with a saffron-infused honey sauce. I have always enjoyed dishes that are both sweet and salty, and this dish certainly fell into that category. The bread and the ricotta were obviously on the saltier side, but the slight touch of honey added the perfect pinch of sweetness to dish. As I write this, I'm craving another order.

Again, I've become much more adventurous in the past few weeks, and was willing to try grilled octopus (normally $9). It had been cooked and then drizzled with olive oil. I was not looking forward to trying it, but we ordered it, and my dinner date was accurate when he said it tasted like chicken. And it did, a combination between chicken and rubber. A good combination though.

Our next dish was not part of the large Stuzzichini Misti. It was part of the restaurant's weekend brunch menu: Maccheroni alla Carbonara ($14). The spaghetti was served with traditional guanciale (an unsmoked Italian bacon) and egg yolk, and was topped with black pepper and shavings of pecorino. I felt that the pepper in the dish, combined with the spices used as a rub for the guanciale made the dish a little too spicy, but not necessarily in a bad way. Just a surprising way. It certainly wasn't your typically bland Pasta alla carbonara.

And of course I shouldn't neglect our personal carafes of Prosecco di Conegliano ($12 each).

Overall, a very pleasant experience. I have yet to return to Bar Stuzzichini for a weekday meal, but I plan on going back soon. In the meantime, try their weekend brunch. I think you'll find it quite enjoyable.



Bar Stuzzichini
928 Broadway
(between 21st and 22nd Streets)
(212) 780-5100 Read More!

Nine the Movie

Yes, I know that the trailer for "Nine" came out nearly three weeks ago, maybe even a month ago at this point, but I think that it looks absolutely fabulous. First of all, the music -- in general -- is amazing, and it's directed by Rob Marshall of "Chicago" fame. Second, the cast is the definition of an all-star cast. Six Academy Award winners. One Academy Award nominee. And a Grammy winner.

Daniel Day-Lewis stars as Guido Contini, an Italian director who is facing a midlife crisis that is stifling his creativity, while at the same time, he is attempting to balance the numerous women in his life including his wife Luisa (Marion Cotillard), his mistress Carla (Penelope Cruz), his muse and protégé (Nicole Kidman), his confidant and costume designer Liliane (Judi Dench), an American fashion journalist (Kate Hudson), the whore from his youth (Fergie) and his mother (Sophia Loren).

And p.s. I have never been a huge fan of Fergie, but she sings the song in the trailer ("Be Italian") and it sounds awesome!

Now I will be anxiously awaiting November 25th! Read More!

Momoya - Chelsea

Another date, another enjoyable restaurant. This time, Japanese in the heart Chelsea: Momoya.

We started off simple: edamame and sake. The edamame ($5) was typical. Baby soybeans that had been boiled and were served with salt. A little too much salt in my opinion. The sake was delicious however. We ended up splitting two bottles of Tokimeki ($26 -- 300ml). In the past, I have never really enjoyed sake. I find it to be too bitter. That being said, I'm certainly not an expert when it comes to sake, but the Tokimeki was outstanding. First of all, it was a sparkling sake, which was something that I had never had before, but it was crisp and refreshing. On top of that, the Tokimeki was fruity, which made it a very pleasant drink.

Next, we moved on to the meal. Our first appetizer was Beef Tataki ($11), thin slices of beef, lightly seared and placed in soy-based au jus. Very enjoyable plate. Topped with a kaiware salad (sprouted daikon radish seeds), it reminded me of a perfect, slightly chilled summertime meal. After we had finished our plate, we sampled a dish of raw Yellowtail amberjack in a citrus-soy sauce which was topped with sliced jalapenos ($10). The fish was fresh and delicious, but I felt that there were too many jalapenos, which overpowered the flavor of the fish and sauce. By simply pushing them to the side however, the problem was easily fixed.

Our sushi then arrived. First, we sampled the Salmon Crunch roll ($10), which had spicy salmon paired with mango and avocado, as well as crunchy rice. While the salmon was very fresh and the roll had a lovely assortment of flavors, we both agreed that the Salmon Crunch seemed to be too heavy.

While we were consistently satisfied with our meal, I must say that a particular dish stuck out for me. I had never eaten eel before, and had no interest in ever trying eel. But there it was, sitting in front of me. A slice of eel, held on top of a bed of rice by a piece of seaweed, and then lightly drizzled with teriyaki. And I must say, I was pleasantly surprised.

With Momoya, the dishes aren't wildly innovative, but being innovative isn't Momoya's goal. Their goal is to make a pleasant and enjoyable meal. They offer a comfortable and familiar menu, with your standard appetizers, sushi and sashimi as well as conventional main courses.

Overall, a very enjoyable experience and seeing that it's only a few blocks from my apartment, I will certainly return in the future.


Momoya
185 Seventh Avenue
(at 21st Street)
(212) 989-4466 Read More!

Changes on Washington Square Park

Last month, the Archdiocese of New York agreed to not only demolish the Catholic Center at N.Y.U. but to also sell the plot of land that it was on to the university. For weeks, students and residents of Greenwich Village had no idea what would replace the building. Curbed however recently revealed the design for the new N.Y.U. Center for Academic and Spiritual Life at 58 Washington Square South...






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Tía Pol

Since returning to New York City in December I have been particularly interested in finding an enjoyable tapas restaurant in my neighborhood. After sampling Casa Mono & Bar Jamon (which I was quite disappointed with), I finally found one near my apartment in Chelsea: Tía Pol.

I went there on Sunday night for a date, and arrived at the door without knowing a single thing about the restaurant, except for what the web page had told me: according to the owner, Tía Pol is a traditional tapas restaurant, which features small plates from various regions of Spain, from Galicia to Andalucia, from the Basque Country to Cataluna.

Naturally, we started the evening off with amazing sangria. They used what I believe was a Spanish Tempranillo, and topped it off with apples and brandy, and just enough ice to chill the sangria, but not enough to water it down.

And now for the tapas...

We started off with croquetas de jamón y croquetas del día ($9). For those of you who do not speak Spanish -- myself included -- we had ham croquettes and the croquette of the day, which was a shrimp croquette. I personally felt that the ham croquette was a little generic, it was however one of the better ham croquettes that I have had. The shrimp croquette on the other hand was delicious. The flavor of the shrimp was clearly present, but did not overpower the potato or the fried exterior.

Next, the pan con tomate ($8), which included two toasted baguette slices, topped with a tomato puree. It was simple, yet extremely refreshing. The tomato seemed lightly chilled and was blended perfectly with the olive oil, and the seasonings really added to dish as a whole.

We then ordered both plato de quesos de la casa and embutidos ibericos. The first, plato de quesos ($7.50) was a plate of assorted Spanish cheeses, including manchego, garrotxa and valdeon. Each cheese was paired with an accoutrement, such as a nut or berry. The dish was served with baguette slices. Very simple dish, I know, but I cannot resist the power of cheese.

The embutidos ibericos ($16) was a plate of assorted cured Spanish meats, which included an aged, spiced ham (similiar to an Italian prosciutto), chorizo palacios (a dry-cured, mild sausage with a smokey flavor), and lomo embuchado (a dry-cured pork loin seasoned with smokey pimenton).

Our final plate was a special for the evening (price unknown since my date was kind enough to pay). It was cochinillo asado, a tender slice of suckling pig topped with a mild sauce. Hands down one of the best suckling pig experiences that I have had within the past few years. The skin was crispy, but not nearly as tough as I would have expected it to be. It was easy to bite. Enjoyable in fact. And due to the amount of collagen in the young pig, the meat was extremely tender.

Overall, I must say that Tía Pol was quite enjoyable. The staff were friendly and attentive. One concern that I had with the restaurant was with its size. It is very small, tiny in fact. But I must say, it is quite intimate, and there seemed to be plenty of space at each table, and just as much space at the bar.

Overall, Tía Pol is most definitely worth a visit.


Tía Pol
205 10th Ave
(between 22nd Street and 23rd Street)
(212) 675-8805 Read More!

Agatha Christie's Istanbul

All my life I had wanted to go on the Orient Express. When I had traveled to France or Spain or Italy, the Orient Express had often been standing at Calais, and I had longed to climb up into it. Simplon-Orient-Express – Milan, Belgrade, Stamboul...

– Agatha Christie, An Autobiography

All my life I too had wanted to go on the Orient Express. I was only 8 years old when my grandmother gave me an original 1934 edition of Agatha Christie’s thriller, Murder on the Orient Express. It was an easy read. Only 256 pages. But in those pages, I found a new world, filled with dark and sinister characters.

Returning from a case in Syria, the famous detective Hercule Poirot boarded an unusually crowded Orient Express in Istanbul. As the train worked its way through the Balkans, a heavy snowstorm caught the train dead in its tracks.

On that night, Poirot was awoken by a loud cry coming from the compartment next to his, occupied by the mysterious Mr. Ratchett. Seconds later, a bell rang and the conductor arrived at Ratchett’s door.

“Ce n’est rien. Je me suis trompé,” said Ratchett, which was strange, since he was hampered by not knowing any foreign languages.

At breakfast the following morning, as the other passengers complained about being trapped by the snow, Poirot was informed that Mr. Ratchett had been found murdered, stabbed twelve times during the night.

As the evidence mounted, it continued to point in wildly different directions, appearing as though a mastermind was challenging Poirot. But in the end, Poirot’s little grey cells won.

After reading and re-reading Murder on the Orient Express, dreams of the fabled train and its fabulous final destination constantly stirred in my head. So I made the decision: I too would go to Agatha Christie’s Istanbul.

The murderer is with us–on the train now...

After her unhappy marriage to Colonel Archibald Christie came to an end in April 1928, Agatha Christie was determined to leave England behind. Initially her mind was set on the West Indies, but a chance meeting with a naval officer and his wife who had just returned from the Middle East had changed her mind. At age 38, Agatha Christie was going to fulfill her dream of traveling from Calais to Istanbul on board the Orient Express, before continuing on to Baghdad.

Her journey began at Victoria Station in London, where she then traveled to the white cliffs of Dover, before crossing the English Channel to Calais. There, she finally boarded the legendary Orient Express bound for Istanbul, a journey that covered 3,342 kilometers in three days. On that trip she encountered the woman who inspired one of her greatest characters: the loud and obnoxious American woman, Mrs. Hubbard.

Unfortunately, my journey did not begin in London or even Calais, but in Bucharest. Regular service between Calais and Istanbul was discontinued in 1977, but the Simplon-Orient-Express lives on, operating as a luxurious, private train, which operates between London and Istanbul from March until November each year.

After a short time in the Romanian capital, I arrived at Gara de Nord with two friends of mine from college. Together, we boarded our train and settled in for our 18-hour journey.
By midnight, we were racing through Bulgaria, and when I awoke at 8 o’clock, we were traveling along the Sea of Marmara.

“Ladies and Gentlemen, we will be arriving in Istanbul in five minutes.”

As our train pulled into Istanbul’s Sirkeci Garı, I had an overwhelming feeling of excitement, a dream fulfilled. Eighty years ago, Agatha Christie found herself in the same position that I was in. She had gone to bed the night before, probably somewhere in the Balkans, and when she awoke, she was in the Orient.

The Bosphorus was rough and M. Poirot did not enjoy the crossing.

After leaving the train station, we headed to the docks near the Galata Bridge. I was determined to cross the Bosphorus, the tiny strait with stunning blue waves that connects the Black Sea to the Mediterranean, and separates the European side of Istanbul from the Asian side. At 11 o’clock, we boarded the “ATATURK,” a rickety, old ferry bound for Asia. Despite being the end of October, the sun was shining brightly above Istanbul, and a cool breeze was blowing across the deck. A handful of women were standing at the stern of the boat, sunglasses on, hair blowing in the wind. It was also their first trip to Istanbul.

“When I was little, my mother and father told me stories of their trip to Istanbul, and how they crossed the Bosphorus before continuing on to Syria,” said Margaret Smith, 74, an American tourist from Chicago. “I have always dreamt of what it would be like, so I finally sat down and told myself that I was going to do it.”

After ninety minutes, the small ferry finally docked on the Asian side of Turkey, in the picturesque town of Anadolu Kavağı, situated on the peninsula where the Bosphorus meets the Black Sea. It was just as I had imagined it would be like. Small homes lined both the coast and the hills above the town, and fishing boats surrounded the harbor, with hundreds of Turkish men and women waiting for the tourists to disembark.

Madame. Madame, lucky tooth from St. Augustine of Hippo. Lucky Buddha, Madame?

As soon as the passengers left the ferry, they were immediately surrounded by Turkish men and women, carrying enormous wicker baskets, filled with everything from curry and cayenne pepper to a pair of used Nike sneakers to baskets filled with nazar boncuğu (an amulet that protects against the evil eye).

“Sir, sir, I have something perfect for you,” said one of the men, showing me a miniature Turkish flag. “Only 10 Lira.”

I kindly rejected the offer, and headed to the crystal clear shores of the Bosphorus.
Around 3 o’clock, the ferry’s whistle began to blow, and all I could do was imagine Hercule Poirot standing there.

“He was hardly more than five feet four inches but carried himself with great dignity,” said Captain Arthur Hastings upon meeting the famous Poirot. “His moustache was very stiff and military.

“The neatness of his attire was almost incredible; I believe a speck of dust would have caused him more pain than a bullet wound,” added Hastings. “Yet this quaint dandified little man had been in his time one of the most celebrated members of the Belgian police.”

Somewhere in the distance, an announcement was made: “The Bosporus Ferry will shortly depart for Istanbul Sirkeci Station, connecting with the Orient Express.” I could see the characters assembling: Mary Debenham and Colonel Arbuthnot in one corner, with Poirot alone in another.

The return trip was more similar to the one that Hercule Poirot had experienced: the Bosphorus was rough, and with the sun hidden behind the clouds, there was no protection from the cold wind that swept across the boat. No matter how cold, following Poirot’s footsteps had been well worth it.

On arrival at the Galata Bridge, M. Poirot drove straight to the Tokatlian Hotel.

Unfortunately, Hotel Pera Palace – the inspiration for Agatha Christie’s glamorous Tokatlian Hotel – was closed for renovations during my visit. The massive champagne colored, oriental palace loomed large on Mesrutiyet Caddesi, near the leisurely Taksim Square district however, with signs advertising its upcoming grand re-opening. I briefly stood in front of the hotel, with my eyes closed, imagining Room 411, the room where she had written Murder on the Orient Express.

We then worked our way across the Golden Horn, to Sultanahmet, the heart of historic Istanbul, and what 19th-century travelers called “Stamboul.”

After wandering around “Stamboul,” and exploring everything from the Blue Mosque to the Hagia Sophia and Topkapi Palace, I finally stumbled upon Bayezid Square, the entrance to Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar. But to call it a bazaar is a sin. It is more like a small, indoor city, filled with 58 streets and over 6,000 shops. To wander through the Bazaar is a thrilling experience, as it is the perfect setting for one of Agatha Christie’s novels. Anything can be bought there, from spices and silk to old Ottoman doorknobs and Byzantine coins. I was even able to buy a barber shave for $10 USD from Abdullah Youssef, a Jordanian living in Istanbul with his wife and six children.

And for you New Yorkers, the Grand Bazaar makes Canal Street look like an amateur’s show.

“Prada, Gucci, Chanel, we have it all,” shouted one vendor named Mustafa.

“How much for the loafers,” I asked, inquiring about a pair of ‘real’ Prada driving shoes.

“They are real leather my friend, the highest quality,” he responded.

“How much?”

“For you my friend, 100 American dollars.”

I laughed and began to walk away, but suddenly I was beckoned back.

“Okay, okay, for you, a special offer,” he said quietly.

After a going back and forth, I finally got my loafers, for $35 USD. Quite the bargain, indeed.

‘I shall have to go on tonight,’ he said to the concierge. ‘At what time does the Simplon Orient leave?’

On my last day in Istanbul, I returned to Istanbul’s Sirkeci Garı.

Since the decline of the original Orient Express, the train station was renovated and transformed into a regional transportation hub. The glorious old entrance was no longer used, and instead, passengers entered through a modern one near the northwestern end of the station. New ticket windows replaced the old ones, and the old passenger waiting room was transformed into a restaurant, with a suitable name: the Orient Express Restaurant. Above the restaurant’s fireplace was a photo of Agatha Christie, the woman who turned the Orient Express into a symbol of mystery, power, intrigue and glamour.

Despite the hundreds of tourists crowding around the station, Hercule Poirot was still there, lingering on in spirit. I could still see him entering the station with his close friend M. Bouc, the director of Compagnie Internationale des Wagon-Lits. Together the men separated the crowds of merchants and gypsies as they walked towards the train.

Beyond the noise and commotion, a final call was made: “The Orient Express will depart from platform one for Uzonköprü, Sofia, Belgrade, Zagreb, Brod, Trieste, Venice, Milan, Lausanne, Basel, Paris, and Calais, with connections for London.”

The characters began to assemble: the devious Mrs. Hubbard, the gentle Countess Andrenyi, the youthful Mr. MacQueen, and the ruthless Mr. Ratchett. As the conductor Pierre Michel escorted the passengers to their cabins, the whistle blew, creating a melancholy cry from the engine. Suddenly, a jerk, as the train came to life.

The Orient Express has started on its three-days’ journey across Europe.

While Agatha Christie boarded a train of extreme luxury headed for Calais, I boarded a train owned by the Turkish State Railway headed for Thessaloniki, Greece. It was 5 o’clock in the afternoon when the whistle blew, and our train slowly began to leave Sirkeci station. The sun was slowly beginning to set as the train raced along the Sea of Marmara, with the red and orange rays reflecting in the clear blue water. And in that moment, I know that I had left behind a piece of my heart in the fabled Istanbul. I sat back, and closed my eyes, remembering all of the fabulous treasuries that I had seen, in Agatha Christie’s Istanbul.



GETTING THERE
Direct flights between New York's John F. Kennedy International Airport and Istanbul’s Atatürk International Airport are available on either Delta or Turkish Airlines.

WHERE TO STAY
For some extra glamour, try the Four Season Hotel at Sultanahmet (Tevkifhane Sokak No. 1, Sultanahmet-Eminönü, Istanbul; 90 (212) 638 82 00; www.fourseasons.com; rooms starting at 300 EUR per night for a standard double room). Interested in being on the water? Try the brand new Four Seasons Hotel at the Bosphorus (Çirağan Cad. No. 28, Beşiktaş, Istanbul; 90 (212) 381 40 00; www.fourseasons.com; rooms starting at 300 EUR per night for standard double room).

If you are traveling on a budget, but looking to stay down the street from the Four Seasons at Sultanahmet, try a quaint bed and breakfast: Hotel Peninsula (Adliye Sokak No. 6, Sultanahmet, Istanbul; 90 (212) 458 68 50; www.hotelpeninsula.com; rooms starting at 35 EUR per night for a standard double room).

WHERE TO EAT
In Sultanahmet, wander along the main street of Akbiyik Caddesi, which has everything from chicken shish and falafel to narguile (water pipe, hookah). And it’s extremely inexpensive, with most meals being less than 10 TRY ($6.37 or €4,94). If you are looking to experience it all in one sitting, try Café Meşale (Arasta Bazaar, Utangaç Sokak, Cankurtaran; 90 (212) 518 95 62). Located in the Arasta Bazaar, behind the Blue Mosque, Café Meşale has it all: cheap prices, phenomenal chicken shish, whirling dervishes, and what most consider to be the best narguile in Istanbul.

Try Beyoğlu for an excellent outdoor dining experience. Cezayir Street, also known as La Rue Française, has rows of francophone cafés and restaurants. Go to Artiste Terasse (Cezayir Çikmazi, 4/9-10, Galatasaray, Istanbul; 90 (212) 244 70 18) for rooftop views of the Hagia Sophia, Topkapı Palace, Sultanahmet Mosque and Galata Tower.


This piece was originally written for my Travel Writing course, which I took at New York University in Prague in Fall 2008.
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