Saturday, September 12, 2009

Minetta Tavern

I have found a new favorite burger joint in New York City: the Minetta Tavern.

The Tavern first opened in Greenwich Village in 1937 (and it was named after the Minetta Brook, which ran southwest from 23rd Street to the Hudson River – who knew?). For the last 72 years, it has been a notorious hangout for some of America's great writers and poets, including Ernest Hemingway, Ezra Pound, Eugene O'Neill, E. E. Cummings, Dylan Thomas, and Joe Gould.

After decades of serving Italian cuisine, the Tavern was purchased by Keith McNally and his chef-partners Lee Hanson and Riad Nasr (Balthazar, Pastis, Schiller's, Morandi, etc.). Their goal: to turn the Minetta into a "Parisian steakhouse meets classic New York City tavern." After it finally reopened, it had been transformed into an 85-seat bistro, with the vintage murals and photo intact.

The French framework of the menu fits in perfectly with McNally's other eateries, and so does the cuisine. On one end, you have the classics, such as oxtail and foie gras terrine, stuffed squid, or filet of trout meunière. But there is also a section of the menu devoted solely to the tavern-esque fare that you'd expect.

Despite having an appetizing menu, I limited myself to only have one thing: one of the Tavern's infamous cheeseburgers. I was advised by a friend that the Pat La Frieda “Black Label” burger (for $26) had not lived up to his expectations, mainly because it lacked cheese. So instead, I chose the Minetta Burger. It's a hearty short-rib blend from the legendary West Village meat purveyors Pat LaFrieda, which is topped with caramelized onions and cheddar cheese and served on a Balthazar Bakery brioche bun (naturally). Eight and a half ounces for only $16. And it comes with a plate of amazing frites. I ordered it medium, and ate it right at the bar with a Gin Blossom (Plymouth Gin, St. Germain elderflower liqueur, Aperol and fresh grapefruit juice – $14). As soon as I tried the burger, I was in heaven. It was cooked perfectly, so juicy and tender.

HEAVEN.

I also ordered a plate of delicious wild mushrooms, that had been heavily cooked in butter and a variety of herbs. Plain and simple. But they were an absolutely perfect side for my cheeseburger.

All that I have to say is GO! The Minetta Tavern has a fantastic environment; it was crowded when I went over the weekend, but like McNally's other restaurants, it was a crowd of beautiful people. Give it a try, you'll love it. Next on my list was the bartender's recommendation: the Tavern Steak with pommes frites ($21).


MINETTA TAVERN
113 MacDougal Street
(at Minetta Lane)
(212) 475-3850

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