Tuesday, May 26, 2009

Philadelphia: Top 10


About two years ago, Frank Bruni of The New York Times wrote an article titled "The Fertile Territory Beyond Our Own," about a trip outside of the boroughs, to Philadelphia where he dined at one of the City of Brotherly Love's finest restaurants.

While he does conclude by admitting that he has not been fortunate enough to spend a significant amount of time outside of New York in order to experience some of the country's greatest chefs, he begins his piece by saying that, "We New Yorkers like to think we live in the best restaurant city in the country, and I’ve not seen any compelling evidence to date that we don’t."

Over the past three years, I have attempted to shed my Philadelphia heritage by integrating myself into New York City, but one aspect of my birth city that I have always been proud of is its dining scene. While New York is a city that makes it difficult for aspiring chefs and restaurateurs to run their own shows as Bruni says, cities like Philadelphia have made it easy for some of the nation's most talented chefs to break into the business.

And so, after a recent trip back to Philadelphia, I have decided to select my choices for the Top 10 Philadelphia restaurants.



10. Le Bec-Fin
1523 Walnut Street
(215) 567-1000

Nearly four decades after famed French chef Georges Perrier opened his landmark Philadelphia restaurant, Le Bec-Fin, it remains atop the city's culinary ladder, as not only one of the greatest restaurants in the United States, but also as Philadelphia's sole representative in both the Michelin Guide and the Mobil Travel Guide.

That being said, I have never been a huge fan.

While the food is amazing, Le Bec-Fin has lost (its coveted fifth star in favor of a more relaxed atmosphere and...) its ability to thrill and surprise me. The last time that I went to Le Bec-Fin, I tried the spring 3-course prix-fixe meal for $35 per person. A braised red beet salad with goat cheese, candied walnuts and a citrus vinaigrette for an appetizer; organize white feathered chicken, with roasted cauliflower, brussel sprouts, lamb bacon, topped with a sherry vinegar sauce for dinner; and for dessert, Gâteau Le Bec-Fin , featuring layers of chocolate genoise soaked in rum and chocolate mousse, topped with a stunning display of chocolate fans.

Like I said, the food was fantastic, but there were no sparks. It was just another meal, and just another Philadelphia restaurant. That being said, it is Philadelphia's only Mobil Five Star Restaurant.

9. Gnocchi
613 East Passyunk Ave
(215) 592-8300

I first went to Gnocchi on Passyunk Avenue (at South Street) about five years with my parents, and I've loved it ever since. Appetizers range between $5 and $8, with salads costing $6. My personal favorite: the Gnocchi House Salad with roasted peppers, portabello mushrooms and romaine lettuce in an olive oil and balsamic vinaigrette. Then there are the homemade pastas which range between $11 and $16. At Gnocchi, I tend to be a person of habit, and will always stick to the classics: Tomato Basil Gnocchi classic with homemade potato gnocchi served in aurora sauce ($11). I admit the service is occasionally not the best, but I still think that this is one of the best BYOBs in the City of Brotherly Love.

8. Sang Kee Peking Duck House
238 North 9th Street
(215) 922-3930

First of all, I'm talking about the one in Chinatown. And not the one in Wynnewood. Yes, I know that parking is impossible, but it is totally worth it.

If you are looking for perfect Peking Duck, then look no further than 9th Street (between Spring and Winters Streets). What else? I always start out with a bowl of their exceptional won ton soup. I was last at Sang Kee in the December, and with the chill in the air, I started out with the house tea. It was hot, delicious, made from healthy ingredients; just the thing my immune system was looking for. Another stand out item at Sang Kee is their General Tso's Shrimp with brown rice. No matter what you order, the dishes are always flavored impeccably.

The atmosphere is fantastic at Sang Kee, constantly bustling. I admit that it is not the place for a quiet, romantic date, but if you are looking for something fun and vibrant with damn good, Chinese food, I'd highly recommend Sang Kee.

7. Melograno
2012 Sansom Street
(215) 875-8116

When my friends recently gave me a call and asked me to join them at Melograno ON SANSOM STREET, I was quite confused. What had happened to the quaint Italian BYOB on Spruce Street. Yes, it was tiny, and yes, the average wait for a table was about an hour long, but the food was simply amazing.

Needless to say, I was pleased that little had changed. It's still Italian. It's still BYOB. And it's still quaint, with a neighborhood-gem sort of charm, despite the fact that the dining room at its new location is significantly larger. Most importantly, it still offers amazing, flavorful, and generally inexpensive food.

Classics: arugula and prosciutto salad with a light dash of lemon dressing, or cod lightly coated in truffle oil. Required to try: any of their papardelle pastas, or tagliatelle with pork, which at $16 is a steal especially based on the size of the dish. My personal favorite: spaghetti carbonara with anchovies in a white truffle sauce, especially if you bring a long a nice bottle of red.

6. Pod
3636 Sansom Street
(215) 387-1803

Pod introduced something to Philadelphia that had only been seen in the culinary meccas of New York and London: the sushi conveyor belt.

That however was quite some time ago, and now that the excitement has worn off, what is left? Fairly consistent and enjoyable Pan-Asian cuisine in a retro environment.

Again, I'm a creature of habit, so what do I get? Chicken potstickers in mustard aioli ($9) and kobe beef with wasabi, which is cooked tableside on steaming Japanese river rocks ($15), both for appetizers. I generally share the Pod Caesar (shredded romaine, wonton crisps, sesame seeds, and ginger-infused caesar salad dressing - $10) with those dining with me. And for an entree, one of the following: wasabi crusted Filet Mignon with mashed potatoes covered in a black soy truffle oil ($29) or glazed Chilean sea bass ($28).

And my favorite dessert in Philadelphia: Chocolate, Chocolate, Chocolate ($11) which includes three chocolate desserts in a bento box. A chocolate shochu shooter. Chocolate bread pudding with crumbled English toffee. A chocolate caramel tart with salted cocoa crumble.

5. Tacconelli's Pizzeria
2604 East Somerset Street
(215) 425-4983

In 1918, a genius moved to Philadelphia form Italy: Giovanni Tacconelli, the creator and original chef at Tacconelli's Pizzeria in the Port Richmond section of Philadelphia.

Open from Wednesday to Sunday, Tacconelli's only makes about 200 pies per evening, and when you call for your reservation, you are required to state how many pies you would like to reserve, in addition to the number of seats. It's BYOB as well, and beer and wine are welcome. The pizzeria is in a very residential neighborhood, and it has a very mom-and-pop atmosphere about it.

Philadelphia magazine has often listed it as the best pizza in Philadelphia, and both Zagat's and Emeril Lagasse have named Tacconelli's one of the best pizzerias in America. And thanks to the pizzeria's genuine brick oven, the thin crust pizza is the best that I have ever had.

My family eats a lot, so we generally order one pie less than there are people. Does that make sense? Five people, four pies; four people, three pies. And trust me, they're all gone by the time we finish. You can order a tomato, regular, white, or margerita pizza, and you can cover it with a variety of toppings. Our usual: a white pie with tomatoes and basil, or regular pie with lots of prosciutto.

Whatever you order though, you'll be happy that you tried Tacconelli's!

4. Morimoto
723 Chestnut Street
(215) 413-9070

Let's be honest, Morimoto in Philadelphia is not the establishment it used to be. It is no longer Stephen Starr's new and trendy hot spot. It isn't his flashiest restaurant anymore either. And the Iron Chef is hardly there anymore now that he has Iron Chef: America and Morimoto in New York. But despite being open for almost eight years, this hot spot still remains Stephen Starr's best restaurant.

Yes, it is quite expensive. Who in their right mind would pay $7 for a cup of miso soup? But the presentation is flawless and the service is impeccable.

Whitefish carpaccio melts in your mouth. Barbecued eel is a revelation. Caviar and white wasabi adorn the best tuna tartare you'll ever nibble. Kobe beef is cooked tableside in a hot stone bowl. Tofu is mixed to order. Even at $120, the Morimoto Omakase is totally worth it! A multi-course tasting menu designed to allow you to experience the essence of Morimoto's cuisine, the Omakase (on the night that I tried it) included five flawless slices of varying fishes, paired with five perfectly matched sauces. And who can forget that citrus jalapeno squirt. Or the spicy sashimi carpaccio with anchovy sauce. Nothing is nullified, each flavor accentuates the other creating a depth that shows the sheer knowledge and genius of Chef Morimoto.

3. Rouge
205 South 18th Street
(215) 732-6622


I hate to say this, but for the most part Neil Stein is past his prime. The Fish Market closed ages ago. He was forced to sell the Striped Bass to Stephen Starr who turned it into Butcher & Singer. Bleu is gone. So is Avenue B. His once mighty empire has dwindled down into a single restaurant: Rouge.

But what a restaurant.

It's tiny. But comfortable. Laid back. But chic. And while I absolutely love mostly everything on the menu, there is one thing that keeps me coming back for me: the Rouge Burger.

One bite and you are immediately in beefy heaven. The patty is moist and flavorful. The brioche bun is flaky and sweet. The cheese and caramelized onions are outstanding as well, but overshadowed by the almighty beef. The burger was so satisfying that I skipped on the ketchup, lettuce, and tomato. And the Pommes Frites that come along with it are divine. Every frite from top to bottom in the conical holder was crisp and salted nicely. And all of this for $15. And let's not forget that in July 2005, Alan Richman of GQ ranked the Rouge Burger #4 on his list of “The 20 Hamburgers You Must Eat Before You Die.” (And p.s. the Kobe Sliders at the neighboring Barclay Prime claim the #5 spot.)

While Neil Stein's future may still be in question, I pray that Rouge will never die.

2. Marigold Kitchen
501 South 45th Street
(215) 222-6751

Brunch. You must go for brunch. Especially in May 2009 after Bon Appétit named Marigold Kitchen one of the best places to take mom for a Mother's Day. Number 3 to be exact. According to Andrew Knowlton of Bon Appétit:
Enjoying southern dishes (like a collard green and mushroom frittata; a Surry sausage and mushroom crepe; and stone-ground grits) in a converted Victorian home, you'd think you were somewhere in Dixie. But no: It's just Sunday at this lovely University City BYOB.
It truly is one of the best restaurants in Philadelphia, nestled in quiet corner on a charming block, the restaurant feels more like a chic grandmother's home. And I mean that in the best way possible. It's comfortable and cozy.

The best bet is the 3-course meal for $30. Here's what I had last time I was there: mussels sauteed in herb butter for the first course. Pork tender loin with asparagus and a warm bacon vinaigrette came next. And finally the Apple Spice Cake with caramel sauce and buttermilk ice cream. Delicious.

1. Vetri
1312 Spruce Street

(215) 261-7069


And now, for my top choice: Vetri.

I had never been to Vetri before, but had been hearing about it for quite a while. After all, it opened in 1998. And after Frank Bruni reviewed both Osteria and Vetri by Marc Vetri, I knew that I had to try it.

I arrived at Vetri one evening, and as the hostess took me to my seat, I was taken through the narrow hallways of a townhouse that could have easily been mistaken as someone's home. It's tiny, 35 seats only. And the cuisine, divine Italian. As Bruni said, "Vetri ranks with the very best Italian restaurants in New York."

What did I have? First: spinach gnocchi with shaved ricotta and brown butter, which was simply fantastic. And with each bite, another piece of gnocchi simply melted in my mouth. Next: guinea hen breast stuffed with prosciutto served with mushrooms. I had never had guinea hen or guinea fowl before, so this was a first. But it was The combination of flavors between the guinea hen and the prosciutto provided me with the contrasting but equally delicious flavors, and with the mushroom sauce on top provided me with a creamy alternative.

Outstanding.

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